Made in Japan Masterpiece: The Journey of Yoshida&Co.'s "PORTER / TANKER"

Artisan Techniques Transcending Time

We spoke with a representative from Yoshida&Co.'s marketing department about the journey behind their masterpieces.

"The founder, Kichizo, was not only an artisan but also a businessman and innovator. He collaborated with YKK to develop zippers from scratch—the first such partnership in the world—and focused on product development, creating groundbreaking items like the Elegant Bag with adjustable width," explains the Yoshida&Co. representative.
 
This innovative spirit led Kichizo to establish his own brand "PORTER" in 1962, introducing unprecedented designs such as travel bags made with thick glove leather. Young employees also played a significant role in this creative expansion.
"From the beginning, Kichizo had a global perspective. He sent his children to study abroad and recruited young employees who had experienced the world. Partly because of this open mindset, in 1981, our chief director was selected as a member of the world-renowned 'New York Designers Collective,'" says the Yoshida&Co. representative.

The Birth of the Revolutionary "TANKER" Bag: A Military Reinterpretation

As Yoshida&Co. gained international recognition, the company sought to create even more exciting bags. In 1983, they unveiled the groundbreaking "TANKER" bag series, inspired by the materials and details of American Air Force flight jackets.
 
The defining characteristic was the incorporation of vintage MA-1 bomber jacket elements into a travel bag. The fabric was custom-developed, with different colors and materials for the outer and inner layers. Every detail was meticulously designed—from tags to buttons to zippers—to develop a beautiful patina with age.
 

"At that time, we commissioned artisans in Tokyo to create them. Since this was an unprecedented type of bag, there were many trials and errors—the fabric didn't feed smoothly through sewing machines, and stitching wasn't always perfect. However, the men's fashion market wasn't yet focused on fashion bags, nor was military fashion trending, so sales were initially quite slow," recalls the Yoshida&Co. representative.

Nevertheless, this uniquely conceived "TANKER Series" gradually attracted attention from select groups with a keen eye for distinctive items—bag shop owners, stylists, and magazine editors. Among them was Hiroshi Fujiwara, one of the founding figures of Japanese street fashion.

The "TANKER Movement" that Ignited Alongside Ura-Harajuku Culture

"The truth is, the 'TANKER' didn't sell well when it was first released. Only a select few found it interesting enough to purchase. Among them were fashion-forward individuals—stylists and magazine editors. They carried the bags to fashion collections, gradually spreading awareness. " explains the Yoshida&Co. representative.

 Hiroshi Fujiwara was one of these early adopters who liked the bag so much that he decided to create special edition bags with us" explains the Yoshida&Co. representative.

This collaboration resulted in a special edition with "Good Enough," one of the Ura-Harajuku street brands that exploded in popularity during the 1990s. At that time, such partnerships weren't called collaborations but "double names," bringing fresh perspectives to PORTER's "TANKER" series. They created a succession of hits, including bags designed to carry vinyl records and shoulder bags that could be worn around the waist (now known as hip bags).
 
"With these special editions, we were creating entirely unprecedented items. The designs and manufacturing methods all started from scratch. But we brought them to life through our passion and Kichizo's founding spirit of 'Isshin Nyukon' (putting one's heart and soul into each stitch). All the collaborative items with 'Good Enough' became popular products. The trend of wearing hip bags across the shoulder also originated with Fujiwara," says the Yoshida&Co. representative.
 
The "TANKER" series caught fire in the fashion scene through magazines and word of mouth. When it appeared in a television drama in 1997, the "TANKER" series exploded into a massive trend—a genuine social phenomenon.
"The lead actor was already a TANKER enthusiast in his personal life, which is why it appeared in the drama. But the day after it aired, our phones rang non-stop from morning. Because each piece is handcrafted by artisans, we couldn't respond immediately to the demand. The reaction was simply astonishing," recalls the Yoshida&Co. representative.

Thus, the "TANKER" series established its firm position, embraced not only in fashion circles but also in business settings, and continues to enjoy widespread support to this day. Yoshida&Co., founded by one craftsman and his colleagues, has overcome numerous challenges to create innovative bags while growing the brand with the support of many loyal customers.

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