We Asked "atmos," a Leading Force in Sneaker Culture, “Why Are There So Many Unique Sneakers in Japan?”

Long before sneakers became a fashion staple, the Japanese reinterpreted Western sneaker designs, transforming them into a cultural phenomenon. In Japan, the sneaker select shop "atmos" has consistently released uniquely styled sneakers. We sat down with shoe creator Hirofumi Kojima—who has been at the forefront of this culture—to discuss the state of sneakers in Japan.

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Street Fashion and Sneaker Boom

In the 1980s, sneakers like Nike’s Air Jordan 1 and Adidas’ Superstar captured public attention. In Japan, the rise of street fashion transformed sneakers from mere sports gear into fashionable accessories. During the 1990s, sneakers became a central trend as various sports brands launched distinct designs. In Harajuku, new sneaker shops opened one after another, and magazines and special issues frequently featured sneakers. Notably, Nike’s release of the Air Max 95 generated enormous buzz that spread the sneaker craze throughout Japan. It was during this period that the sneaker select shop "atmos" was born.

At that time, Japan was experiencing a street fashion boom. Streetwear brands, designer labels, and the select shops that carried them set the trends. Both international and homegrown brands were popular, and many Japanese brands began releasing exclusive sneaker models. Kojima explains,

“In Japan, there are brands like BAPE, COMME des GARÇONS, UNDERCOVER, Neighborhood, and sacai. These brands, known for their unique aesthetics, are recognized worldwide. Their collaborations with sneaker companies have had a significant impact on Japan’s sneaker culture.”

The sneaker boom of the 1990s gave way to the high-tech sneaker boom of the 2000s. After that, the boom has been slowing down. In recent years, however, core fans, known as "sneakerheads," have drawn public attention by standing in long lines for sneakers sold in limited quantities, or by buying up sneakers by vendors for the purpose of resale.

"atmos" Always Brings Something New

While many sneaker select shops closed after the initial boom, "atmos" defied the trend. For over 25 years, its success has rested on strong creative planning, effective sales strategies, and long-standing relationships with manufacturers. Kojima notes,

“Sneaker shops that failed to differentiate themselves disappeared. Apparel select shops can simply reduce their offerings when the sneaker trend fades, but as a sneaker specialist, we continue to offer sneakers regardless of the trend. That makes creative planning our top priority. At 'atmos', we produce roughly 50 exclusive models every year and release new products almost every week, providing fresh offerings for both local customers and international visitors. Our close relationships with manufacturers also enable us to offer models and ideas that other stores cannot.”

Archive of Exclusive Models by "atmos":

Atmos x Nike Air Max 1 Elephant 2017 Release

This model was chosen as the winner of the VOTE BACK (Air Max Contest) and was later reissued. It features a pattern reminiscent of elephant skin, a monochrome color scheme, and a striking swoosh.

Puma Suede MIJ Skajan 2021 release

A masterpiece that incorporates the design of Japan’s sukajan (decorative jacket). Leveraging Japan’s renowned embroidery techniques, it precisely renders intricate patterns.

ATMOS × ASICS Gel-Inst.360 2011 Release

Based on ASICS’ performance running shoes, ASICS and "atmos" collaborated to refine this model’s design. It features a nubuck upper, punched ASICS stripes, and an underlayer with reflectors, creating a modern, stylish look.

The Evolution of Sneaker Culture Continues

In 2021, "atmos" became a subsidiary of the major American sneaker retailer "Foot Locker" and has since expanded worldwide. Today, "atmos" is focusing on collaborations with elements of Japanese subculture. Kojima explains,

“As we expand globally, Japan’s strength lies in its manga, anime, games, and toy culture. Our recent collaboration with the esports team 'Crazy Loon' marked our first venture into this genre and sold out on its release day—a huge success. As leaders in sneaker culture, we will continue to pursue initiatives that create synergy between these worlds.”

Notable Models Collaborating with Japanese Subculture:

Adidas Originals Samba Atmos Crazy Raccoon 2024 Release

This model reimagines the classic Samba in a "Crazy Loon" style. It comes with a keychain and interchangeable laces, and it sold out on its release day.

Puma Palermo P3R Atmos 2024

A collaboration with the game "Persona 3 Reload", this model captures the combat uniforms and overall aesthetic of the game.

INFORMATION

'atmoscon' will take place on April 19th and 20th.

One of the largest sneaker events in Japan, commemorating the 25th anniversary of ATMOS. Each participating brand's booth will display a project exclusive to the event. Special discount admission tickets are currently on sale for a limited time. The latest information will be updated on SNS and the URL below.
WEB:.
https://www.atmos-tokyo.com/lp/atmoscon

PROFILE

Hirofumi Kojima

He joined "Text Trading" (now known as "Foot Locker atmos Japan") in 2000. He currently serves as the Creative Director and Men's Senior Director at "atmos," overseeing store operations and buying.

Instagram:.
https://www.instagram.com/koji198139/

Photo: Okuyama Yuta, Igarashi Kazuharu