2025.03.27
Shinjuku Nichome is known as Japan’s largest LGBTQ+ district. Although it spans just 300 meters in each direction, this compact neighborhood bursts with life, home to an array of gay bars, mixed bars, and clubs that draw crowds on the weekends. Drag queen "Labianna Pinklady Joroe" takes us on a tour of this colorful and inclusive corner of Tokyo.
Shinjuku Nichome has long been a hub for gay culture in Japan. Its rise began during an era when discrimination against sexual minorities was widespread. For many, it became one of the few spaces where gay men could freely express themselves and connect with others. Today, it has grown into a vibrant nightlife district with 300–400 establishments, including gay bars, lesbian bars, and mixed bars that welcome people regardless of gender or sexuality. While the area centers queer experiences, it warmly invites all who bring respect and a spirit of allyship.
Established in 2011, "Kanva“ offers inventive Japanese cuisine enhanced with global spices. Its tranquil, traditional-style interior makes it a cozy choice, even for solo diners. "Before heading out or performing in Nichome, I often come here with my dancer friends and fellow queens for a solid meal"(Labianna)
"Before heading out or performing in Nichome, I often come here with my dancer friends and fellow queens for a solid meal," says Labianna.
Mama Yamochi and Labianna
“As a queer person, I sometimes feel anxious about being stared at or judged. But this bar is wonderfully LGBTQ+ friendly, and it immediately puts me at ease. The atmosphere is cozy and welcoming, and the mama here is absolutely lovely. By the way, in Shinjuku Nichome, it’s common to call bar owners or managers ‘mama,’ no matter their gender.” (Labianna)
A popular dish is the "Salted Fried Local Chicken with Meyer Lemon". The hidden gem, "Hana-chan Curry," recreates a beloved family recipe from staff member Hana’s childhood home.
"The chicken is tender and juicy. And the curry—add a raw egg and it becomes so mild and delicious!" (Labianna)
You can also pre-order one of their beloved bento boxes through Instagram DMs—Labianna highly recommends them.
After dinner, head to Nakadori, the district’s main street. You’ll spot "AiiRO CAFE" by its striking rainbow torii gate. Now celebrating its 10th anniversary, this beloved bar is known for its open-air vibe—guests can sip drinks inside or out front.
Staff member Chris, whose Instagram posts keep regular customers entertained.
Though compact inside, the space naturally encourages conversation with fellow patrons. Labianna even performs drag shows during outdoor events here.
"There are always people enjoying drinks at the outdoor tables, so even first-timers feel comfortable. The staff speaks English too, which makes it great for visitors. And the weekend DJ events are free with just a drink order!" (Labianna)
At "Bar Conto," drag queen and entertainer Baby Vaggy serves as the warm-hearted “mama.” Patrons enjoy drinks, conversation, and karaoke in a laid-back setting. While some Nichome bars are members-only or gay-only, Conto is a mixed bar open to all. There is a difference in cover charge depending on the customer, but everyone is welcome.
"It’s an authentic gay bar where you can drink with unique drag queens and iconic mamas. Vaggy Mama isn’t your over-the-top type—she’s refreshingly down-to-earth. You can really relax here." (Labianna)
"The concept of cover charges might be unfamiliar to overseas guests, but in Japan, it’s standard in bars and small eateries. Knowing this in advance helps set expectations." (Vaggy)
Vaggy works Tuesdays and Fridays. On other days, various drag queens take turns behind the bar, bringing their own flair to the role of mama.
Before You Go: A Message from Labianna
"Nichome is, above all, a queer-first space. If you’re a straight visitor, please come with a mindset of appreciation—as though you’re being welcomed into someone else’s home. Just because we dress boldly doesn’t mean boundaries don’t matter. Respect and human decency always come first." ( Labianna)
Same-sex marriage has yet to be legalized in Japan, and there are still no comprehensive laws to protect LGBTQ+ individuals. In a society where discrimination and prejudice persist, it’s important to understand the feelings of those who come to this neighborhood seeking a safe space—and to enjoy the nightlife with empathy and respect.
Same-sex marriage has yet to be legalized in Japan, and there are still no comprehensive laws to protect LGBTQ+ individuals. In a society where discrimination and prejudice persist, it’s important to understand the feelings of those who come to this neighborhood seeking a safe space—and to enjoy the nightlife with empathy and respect.
Instagram:
@labiannajoroe